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Japanese · brunch

Soufflé Pancakes

Tall, trembling, cloud-soft pancakes lifted by a glossy meringue and cooked low and slow under a lid, golden outside, barely set and custardy within.

Prep
15 min
Cook
45 min
Total
60 min
Serves
6

Batter

Meringue

Pan

To serve

Low and slow is everything: the lowest flame, a lid, and a spoonful of water for steam let the centers cook through before the bottoms burn. A typical pan holds three, so cook in three batches. For the tallest, neatest stacks, use 3-inch ring molds lined with a parchment collar.

  1. Separate the eggs while they’re cold, putting the whites in a large, very clean bowl. Even a speck of yolk will stop them whipping. Pop the whites in the freezer for 10-15 minutes while you make the batter; icy whites make a finer, sturdier meringue.
  2. Whisk the yolks, milk, and vanilla until pale. Sift in the flour and baking powder and whisk just until smooth, thick, and lump-free.
  3. Beat the whites with the lemon juice by hand or mixer on medium speed until foamy. Add the sugar in three additions, then beat on medium-high until glossy with stiff peaks, 3-4 minutes. The meringue should stand straight up on the whisk and not slide when you tilt the bowl. Stop before it turns dry and clumpy.
  4. Set a large nonstick pan with a lid over the lowest heat. Brush lightly with oil and wipe off the excess. If using ring molds, grease the insides and line each with a parchment strip that stands taller than the ring.
  5. Whisk a third of the meringue into the yolk batter to loosen it. Add half the remaining meringue and fold gently with a spatula, then fold in the rest until no white streaks remain. The batter should be thick and hold its shape; if it’s runny, the meringue has deflated.
  6. A typical large pan holds three pancakes, so cook in three batches of three. For each batch, spoon batter into three tall mounds (or fill the rings about three-quarters full), using about two-thirds of that batch. Wait 1-2 minutes, then pile the rest of the batch on top to build height. Add 1 tbsp water to the empty spots in the pan, cover, and cook 6-7 minutes, until the bottoms are golden and the sides look just set.
  7. Gently flip each pancake with two spatulas. If one sticks, give it another minute. Add 1 tbsp water, cover, and cook 4-5 minutes more. Repeat with the remaining batter in two more batches, using 1 tbsp water per side each time.
  8. They’re done when the sides spring back when lightly pressed and a toothpick in the center comes out with moist crumbs, not wet batter. Serve right away. They begin to sink within a few minutes. Finish with butter, powdered sugar, maple syrup, and berries. Whip the cream with the sugar by hand or mixer until soft peaks form.

If they fall flat: the usual culprits are an under- or over-whipped meringue, overmixing when folding, heat that’s too high (the outside browns before the middle sets, then collapses), or lifting the lid too often. A wet, gummy center means they need a few more minutes covered on the second side.