White Rabbit Panna Cotta

1. Unwrap the candies, peeling off the outer paper and leaving the thin rice-paper layer on. Snip each candy in half with kitchen scissors so it melts faster.
2. Pour 3 tbsp of the cold milk into a small bowl. Sprinkle the gelatin evenly over the surface and let it sit for 5 minutes until spongy.
3. In a saucepan, combine the cream, the remaining milk, and the salt. Warm over medium-low heat until steaming, with small bubbles around the edge, about 5 minutes. Don’t let it boil.
4. Turn the heat to low and add the candies. Whisk often for 8-10 minutes, until they’ve melted completely and the cream is smooth and ivory. Taste, and stir in sugar only if you’d like it sweeter. The candies do most of the work.
5. Take the pan off the heat. Add the bloomed gelatin and vanilla and whisk for 1 minute, until no granules cling to the spoon.
6. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a jug to catch any unmelted bits. Let it cool for 10-15 minutes, stirring now and then so the cream doesn’t separate as it sets. If you plan to unmold, lightly oil six ½-cup (4 oz) ramekins.
7. Divide among the ramekins or small glasses. Cover and chill for at least 4 hours, or overnight, until set with a gentle wobble.
8. Serve in the glasses, or unmold: dip each ramekin in hot water for 5-10 seconds, run a thin knife around the edge, and turn out onto a plate with a firm shake. Top lightly with a spoonful of red bean, a pinch of sesame, a dusting of matcha, or a few berries.

Make ahead: covered, panna cotta keeps in the fridge for up to 3 days. Add toppings just before serving.

Agar instead of gelatin: whisk 1 tsp agar powder into the cold cream and milk, bring to a full boil for 2 minutes, then lower the heat and melt in the candies. It sets firmer and faster, and holds at room temperature.